Mountaineerfan's Blog

Now are y'all ready to turn all of that jibberish into a working plan geared towards shopping for a good pair of astronomy binocs?Most of the following will assume you're either in an actual storefront examining different models personally or that you've just recieved a set in the mail.Most of it will also seem a bit redundant but that's o.k. because some of these points can't be expressed too loudly or too often.It will also give me a chance to cover a few points that I haven't mentioned yet.Let's just tackle this by first summing up what makes a great pair of astronomy binocs in terms of features.

1)You need to take a good guess,following the above criteria,of your approximate maximum dark viewing pupil diameter or just try the allen wrench method I link to below.For me I figure mine is around 6 mm given my age and all.It may be wider because I have always had great night vision.If you really wanna go whole hog you can have this checked by an eye doctor.If you're having them checked anyways,then.......

2)Next you need to figure which combo of main objective aperature and magnification will give you the approximate exit pupil diameter.It's o.k if the figures aren't exact although a tad bit narrower a beam coming from the binocs than your pupil diameter would be preferable to one wider than.Like I said before my ideal is around 6 mm so some binocs,like 8X56's with it's 7mm exit diameter,might be a bit large.Given that I might opt for something like a pair of 10X60's or 12X60's with a bit smaller an exit pupil diameter and more magnification to boot.In addition,with the same main objective diameter,a higher magnification will also help in planetary and lunar observations.

3)Once you figure out which size and "strength" binocs you wanna own then you need to start looking at other qualities.The one I'd start with is what kind of prisms do they employee.Like I said earlier you wanna avoid the BK-7's and go with the BaK-4's,period! While this info should be clearly marked somewhere on a product there is a way you can tell the difference if not.While holding the unit at arm's length point them towards a bright area.Now look at the eyepieces.The image you see will be perfectly round if they are BaK-4's.However,if they are 7's the image will most likely have a square or diamond shape.This odd shape can also be cause by undersized prisms which is als something to avoid.During daytime viewing,when the pupil is contracted,this might not be apparent while casually observing but at night,with the more expanded pupil,it would be.

4)Next you wanna examine the degree of coatings and their quality.Check the explanation above for definitions.Frankly,full broadband multi-coated is the only way to go.Remember that sometimes simply coated or multi-coated optics can create false colors.Once again you can pay a little to have it now or wait and pay more later and enjoy your purchase much more.Also remember to stay far,far away from anything "Ruby" coated.One quick test you can do to tell wether binos might have quality coatings is to hold the units at arms length and look into the main objectives.At most you should be able to see a faded outline of yourself with total darkness of the face.No detail should be visible whatsoever because if it is then it means the lenses are throwing light back at you intead of letting it pass through.Still,just to be sure,read the official product description.

5)Stay away from fixed focus binocs.Go with either central focus or independant focus.Ditto for zoom binocs.

6)One of the most important things to try and figure out about a new pair of binos is wether or not they are properly collimated,or in other word,wether both barrels are in perfect alignment with each other and wether or not the internal optics are properly aligned.When you first pick up a pair of binos raise them to your eyes and spread them open and closed.Everything should be nice and tight with no looseness or rattling whatsoever.If there is any then pass.This is also a good time to check the interpupilary distance or how well the eyepieces line up with the width of your eyes.Upon looking through both barrels so to speak you should see one single unsplit circle and none of the movie and TV double circle,"Mickey Mouse ears".If you can't pull this off then you may need a narrower pair.
Next try looking through both sides seperately at a small and/or distant object.It should appear as a single sharp,crystal clear image.If there is any double imaging whatsoever then pass on them.Another sure sign of out of whack binos are,upon spending a few minutes looking through them,they give you a feeling of seasickness or dizziness.The best time to check all of this is at night on a well defined pinpoint star.Since many chain stores and mall vendors won't think too keen of you borrowing binocs to try out at night then a good alternative might be hitting an astro dealers show or a star party near you.Even if there are no vendors there might at least be people to talk to and who will let you try out their stuff.Always be sure of a vendor's return policy either live or online just in case you recieve a defective unit.
Collimation problems are the number one reason for binocular returns and unhappy customers.As I stated earlier some models are adjustable(prisms)by the buyer but most are not.Either way don't count on it.Hell,the first time they come to you a pair of binos should be properly aligned IMO even if you do expect them to go out of whack later.

7)If you wear glasses or just have small pupils don't foget to pay attention to eye relief.Does the amount of relief allow you to wear glasses and still get a clear,unsplit,singular picture?Remember too that if your glasses are just for near or far sightedness you may be able to remove them.However,if you're astigmatic then you'll probably need them.For the curious amongst us people who are astigmatic have partially blurred vision due to a mis-shapen cornea.Also,if you have small pupils do you find yourself having to hold the binocs far away from your eyes in order to get a decent picture?Some shopping around will yield binocs of various eye relief distances.As a general rule with the same main objective diameter lower magnification will generally yield more eye relief.Let's use Oberwerks brand 56mm units as an example.This series is available in either 8X or 11X magnification.While the 8X provide 24mm worth of eye relief the 11X's only provide 19mm.

8)Pay attention to the amount of FOV you have.More FOV will give you those rich field sky views that are so pleasant with binocs.Remember that higher magnifications with any given aperature will yield less FOV but will put you closer to what you're viewing.It's all personal choice of course.

9)Make sure you check for waterproofing.IMO this is a major point.You can get away with just waterproof rated but you should really splurge for the Nitrogen purged option as they also resist fogging.Like I said before it's a matter of pay now or pay later.If you're all like "well I don't have much dough and I really want a pair of binocs now" then take my advice and just stick to naked eye observing for a bit longer while you save some extra moolah.Trust me,you won't regret it.This applies to all areas of excellent vs. marginal in the choosing of quality optics for any purpose.

10)Speaking of fogging,one thing you can do to help aleviate it from happening is to keep your binocs at the same temperature as they will be used in.For instance I leave mine out on my enclosed back porch which is pretty much the same temp as the outdoors at least to within a few degrees.

11)One other thing to watch for in a pair of binocs is what's known as Chromatic abberation which causes a viewed object to appear to have green or purple edges.While they say this isn't a big deal with astronomy binocs,I'll be dambed if I'd want it.It can also result in fuzzy and/or poorly focused images.Chromatic abberation is usually the result of either bad optics which transfer different color of light through them at differnt angles(like a prism)and is usually solved by the use of compound mirrors or lenses.It can also be caused by a short focal length which is remedied by simply using a longer scope.

12)When examining binocs with a wide FOV you might notice some blurriness,or distortion,near the outer edges of the image.This is normal just so it isn't too severe.

13)On any binocs with more magnification than 10X or more aperature than 50mm consider a good tripod.In fact for anything larger,and therefore heavier,than 50mm it's pretty much a given that you'll need one so count on it now.Ditto for anything over 10X because remember that magification magnifies everything including the shakes.I've heard a lot of talk about how hand holdable 60mm's are vs. 70mm's and what not but it's all just wasted words to me.Not to brag but I have fairly large shoulders and I can attest that even 10X50's are hard enough to hold.Even if you can hold them steady it won't be for long.Look for a link in the bibliography to a web page on how to hold binocs.

Notice that I haven't said anything about lightweight binocs?This is because,to me,that is a low priority.Sure there are lightweight models but personally I wouldn't consider them if it meant sacrificing anything else.If you can find all of the other attributes you desire in a pair of lightweights then by all means have at it.Otherise get a tripod.Hell,get one anyways because it'll enhance your viewing regardless.

14)If you're shopping for binocs in person don't forget to look them over well.Most of all don't forget to check both the lenses and eyepieces for scratches or worn off coating.You will know it when you see it,believe me.

15)Once you purchase a nice set of binocs be sure to get a good cleaning kit made specifically for binocs and telescopes.Cleaning kits and cleaning solution refills can be found at any optics/camera or eyeglass dealers.Here is a tutorial from THE world's formost optics expert and holder of the world's most patents(including those Craftmatic adjustable beds),Dr.Nagler: http://www.televue.com/engine/page.asp?ID=143 

16)Even if you're shopping live still walk away from your first instinct.Wait a bit.Write down your observations then go online and research what you fancy.Especially be sure to read those reviews.Do plenty of Yahoo and Google searches for your exact model(s).I will include a bunch of links at the end of this of good dealers,several of which allow customers to leave reviews of products they've bought.Let me say again...READ THOSE REVIEWS! Also,don't be afraid to join an astronomy and/or binoculars forum or two and ask lots of questions.I'll link to some in the bibliography.

17)While I'm at it I may as well mention a couple of neat accessories you will surely want to aquire if you're gonna get serious about binocular astronomy observation.The first thing you may wanna nab up on is a good star atlas or at least a good source of sky charts.Many of the books and magazines I mention below are good sources.The magazines have usually both a monthly skychart within their pages as well as having them for sale on their website.
Another handy dandy little item you might want to consider will be a red flashlight which is just what it sounds like,a flashlight which emits a red light instead of white.The purpose behind this trick is to keep you from losing your nightvision while reading star charts.Good ones can be found in all of the same places as telescopes.

Well y'all there it is,my own version of what you need to know to get the best out of your next pair of binoculars.Hopefully they'll be for stargazing.I'm sorry if you were expecting more of a guide to what to look for or a "how to observe" guide.That subject could and would cover way more than even the subject of chosing binocs.Also,there are a bunch of other books and stuff out there that focus more closely on that subject,some of the best which I cover in the bibliography.
One thing I will do is try and provide regular observation reports regarding what I'm able to see.Truth is that I'm sorta getting into astronomy a bit more seriously now than I have been in a while and this way you all can learn along with me.Like I said earlier I just landed myself a set of huge,honkin' fat glasses and they are super cool.I plan on using them a lot to say the least.Don't forget that I'll not only be doing a review of them next but a whole rant about those huge,overblown,bulky,impractical,way too heavy to be practical but way too cool for school binocs that fall into the catagory of Giants.Look for it very soon.If you have any questions then please feel free to ask and I'll help any way I can.
Before I go you're probably wondering what I've decided to do regarding my own search for a good pair of general purpose,but mostly astronomy,binoculars.Well,I think that what I'm gonna do is go with a set of Oberwerks 10X60mm from the Mariner series.I would have really liked to have gone with the 12X60's but unfortunately they're not waterproof.Here is an example of what I meant about waterproofing adding to the cost.Both series of binocs are fully broadband multi-coated and use BaK-4 prisms and are about the same size,quality and complexity.However the waterproof and nitrogen purged Mariner series cost almost twice as much.Besides the fact that they're waterproof I like the 60mm main objectives too.They're just the right balance of size and weight for both daytime terrestrial and night sky hand-held viewing.
On top of that I have been doing a lot of research into Oberwerks over the last few months and I must say I'm impressed.Right off the bat everyone who's ever dealt with them has had nothing but great things to say.Also,unlike many companies the show is run by a very small group of total bino nuts.One of these is a fellow named Kevin Busarow who is personally in charge of quality control as well as being the owner.This does not mean he oversees a team of people but rather that he himself checks every bino that leaves the warehouse for maximum optical quality and collimation allignment.Every unit,bar none from the lowly 8x40's to the massive 150mm Fujinons.Now THAT'S personal service.On top of that if you are actually willing to travel to their showroom in Ohio Kevin will personally spend as much time as needed with you showing you whatever binocular/tripod/head combinations you want until you're satisfied.Then,like I said,he will fine tune your new binos to within a millimeter of their lives.Also,if you later find any optical abnormality or even just something you're not happy with they will fix it for free.Heck,there was even this one fellow in Wisconsin who carried his brand new Oberwerks out on a sub-zero night and found the focusing mechanism starting to stiffen.Well,apparently Kevin had his out too because before this fellow could call and complain Kevin was on the phone warning him of a potential future problem.Imagine being called by a manufacturer to warn you about a potential problem with something you bought.Simply put,if you're an Oberwerks customer you WILL be 100% happy with your purchase,period!
Another thing about Oberwerk binos is that they are incredibly well made to start with.Check their sales sites,which I've linked below,and check the News & Events,the Info & Support and the About Us sections for some very cool vids.Especially check out the "Why So Heavy" video for a quick lesson in why their stuff is top quality.Since they are my new fave manufacturer and also one I hope to deal with in the near future they are the only actual manufacturer I'm gonna link to.Frankly there are way too many bino makers to include them all anyhow.Like I said,read those reviews and ask those questions.